Friday, July 26, 2013

Beach beach beach

Brac is actually known for its gorgeous beaches. It has one beach in particular that it is known for: Zlatni Rat. Since we had had such crummy weather the night before we were determined to get in some dedicated beach time before we hit the next island, which we were due to get to that evening (Hvar).

Though our hostel had been planned with precision to be near the ferry port, unfortunately the ferry we needed to leave from to get to Hvar (without needing to go back to Split) was on the other side of the island in Bol. This would take about 40 minutes by car.

As luck would have it, we had in our possession the business card of a very willing and friendly taxi driver who would likely drive us all the way there. And hopefully by discount. Also, what the hell, we were on holiday! And split three ways...well, couldn't be that much.

And it wasn't. We called him up and scheduled him to come pick us up after free breakfast at the hotel.

What was the breakfast you ask? The cutest little thing a privately-owned hotel has ever offered: yogurt, fresh fruit, bread (if you liked) and eggs, cooked scrambled or fried (whichever way you liked). Hong Kong P got them scrambled, I got them fried.

I don't know what it is about Croatian eggs, but these are seriously the best eggs I've ever had. Their yolks are more flavorful than almost any other I've ever had before. They're just...better, somehow.


I did enjoy this hotel, despite it being sort of out in the middle of nowhere. Supetar is great, but quite small. If I stayed here again I'd probably stay in Bol, where more of the beach action is happening.



The taxi driver came right on time and we agreed on a discounted price. Not too shabby.

And because we had gotten him a good fare for the day, he was extremely helpful (I think he would have been helpful either way, to be honest). He dropped us off at the beach we wanted to go to, but not before showing us where we could take the train back into town and where that train would drop us off back in town and where the ferries left from. He drove us by all of these places first before dropping us off. They were not along the way. Now that's what I call real service.

And then we spent several blissful hours at Zlatni Rat. Gorgeous rock beach of Brac.





What was one of the first things I spied which I then told Hong Kong P about? Beach-side massages. Oh yes. There was a little hut right off the path down to the beach that was right there for our buying pleasure. Massages (45 minutes to 60 minutes each), different types for different needs. We had them explain the services to us before we even found our spot for towels. I was definitely coming back for a much-needed massage. So was Hong Kong P.

And true to form as soon as we had paid for some chairs to park our stuff (you pay for the reclining chairs or you can just sit on the rocks for free...looked painful), Hong Kong P and I went back and got 45 minute massages. It was blissful. They rubbed us down with pure olive oil.

Admittedly the massage was a bit different than other ones I've gotten, including the beach-side massage I'd received in Thailand. This was the first massage where my stomach was massaged, for example. I'm fine with that but that's usually an area reserved for my person to rub. Very interesting.

All in all an excellent experience, and very worth the money. I then went back and sunbathed and took a dip in the water, alternating to keep myself from roasting (though it was a very pleasant 26degrees or so that day).

I definitely got brown.

Around 4pm it was time for us to catch the train back to town (and by "train" I mean a car that has multiple cars behind it, sort of like the kinds you ride in zoos with kids...though this one was dressed to actually look like a fake train...quite hilarious). We all squeezed into the last car with our luggage so we could see the gorgeous view as we left the beach. We must have looked ridiculous. We didn't care, we were on holiday.

At the port we found out that we'd actually missed the last ferry to go directly to Hvar. Instead we'd need to take a ferry to Jesla and then a bus. Whatever, all good still, we'd still make it.


The ferry to Jesla was pleasant and short. We got to feel the breeze off the water and delight in the sunlight some more. And before we knew it we arrived in Jesla.


Beautiful city really, wish we could have had some more time to explore. We just had enough time to buy a few postcards, use a bathroom and for German K to get catcalled at by a bench full of older gentlemen after her skirt was accidentally hiked up by her bag and Hong Kong P yelled out "your ass is showing!" Hilarious but perhaps not the best thing to do around a bunch of older sunset watchers.

The bus was likewise a nice experience. Nothing really to talk about there. We arrived in Hvar around sunset. Our hotel (the most expensive of the trip) was located right off the main square, in the middle of the action.




Gorgeous views from the window. Hvar is a beautiful port city with lots happening. Definitely one of the places we got the most familiar with, but that's probably just because we stayed awake the longest in it. And had the fanciest meal. But I'll get to that in the next post. The food adventures in Croatia just kept getting better and better.

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